Shenzhen, A Shopping Mecca (Part 2)

One of the best things about living in Asia (or Europe for that matter), is the train system. Thousands of high speed trains transport people between provinces in China and beyond every day. China is the fourth largest country in terms of land mass behind Russia, Canada and the US (thank you Wiki) but you don't realize it until you check the train schedule and see it takes 27 hours to get to Beijing from Hong Kong!

Hong Kong is one of two Special Administrative Regions (SAR) in China (the other is Macau, or what will become the Las Vegas of the East - I'll write about it when we go there, soon, I promise). It was previously owned by the British for 100 years but was turned back over to China in 1997. The two "countries" operate under the policy of "one country, two systems," meaning the People's Republic of China governs foreign affairs and defense, while Hong Kong manages it own legal system, police force, monetary system and customs/immigration. Therefore, if you want to go to China from Hong Kong, you need a visa (see my last post). And, since it was owned by the Brits for so long, English is one of the two official languages of Hong Kong. We like to think of HK as "Asia Lite," you get a taste of Asia, but with the comforts of signs in English and familiar foods and products.

China, on the other hand, is not so much "Lite" (again, see previous post) unless you go to a major city like Beijing (site of the 2008 Olympics which we plan on seeing) or Shanghai. However, just across the border from Hong Kong is a big industrial city named Shenzhen (pop. 8 million). The city itself is not known for much except for what many consider to be the Shopping Mecca of the World, Lo Wu Commercial Center. Don't let the innocuous name deceive you, it is heaven on earth, if you manage to get past the the death-grips of hustlers frantically trying to sell you pirated DVD's and give you massages. It caters both to Chinese and Hong Kong natives, but thrives off foreigners who don't know any better. Everyone in Lo Wu speaks the international language of money and even some English. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

From where I left off previously, we took a train from Guanghzou to Shenzhen. The 2-hour ride from HK to Guangzhou had cost a whopping $25 (US)/each IN FIRST CLASS! From Guangzhou to Shenzhen, trip time = 1 hour, the first class ticket was $10 (US)/each. And if you wanted to ride with the goats and chickens, the ticket to Shenzhen would have been $4.60 (US). The trains were very clean and a model of efficiency, just like in Europe. You just can't beat it!

We pulled into Shenzhen around 7pm and walked out of the station. Just a few hundred yards to the right, Lo Wu rose out of the ground like a phoenix rising out of the ashes. My trusty shopping guide was right on point, it said, "As you come out of the Chinese Customs building, you'll see a glassed-in five-story building. There's only one." And EVERYONE was gravitating towards it. I could feel it sucking me towards it, but Marc quickly grabbed my arm and pulled me to our hotel. Since we had each shed 5 kilograms in sweat, a shower was higher on his list of priorities.

Fine. So we checked in and I grumpily took a shower. We also made dinner reservations for later that night and somehow, I convinced Marc to go to Lo Wu, just to check it out ;-) I told him that I had read in my guide that you could get an hour-long body massage (without a happy ending) for $6 (US) and that's all it took.

Our hotel was conveniently located within a 2 minute walk to Lo Wu (read: totally researched and planned by me). The minute we hit the sidewalk adjacent to Mecca, they hit us like a ton of bricks: "Missy, missy, manicure? Pedicure?" "Mister, DVD, new release?" "Missy, massage, facial?" A firm "no" wouldn't deter them. "No DVD? How about Louis, Prada, Chanel? What you looking for? I help you find!" They followed us up the escalator! It was insane! I, having been thoroughly prepped by my guide, kept walking at a brisk pace and avoided eye contact. Marc was a little nicer, "No, thank you, we are just going inside to look around, no shopping today." Judging by their perseverance, they didn't understand a word of all that.

When we made it inside, I think the skies parted and the sun shone down through the glass ceiling indicating We. Had. Made. It.

Shops as far as the eye could see. Wall to wall counterfeit goods, just waiting to be haggled about. You know all those little stickers you pull off products that say "Made in China," well, this is where they are made for about 1/100 of the price you purchase them for in the U.S.

But we were on a mission. Find the recommended Jian Fu Mei Massage Parlour. On the fourth floor, after being hounded by no less than 32 goods peddlers, we found it. We signed up for a dual massage (clothes on, please and thank you) and were quickly ushered in lest some other enterprising masseuse manage to lure us away. On the short walk to the massage room, we were offered the following additional services: manicure, pedicure, facial, foot massage, ear candling (what?), reflexology, acupuncture, hot stone massage, Vichy shower and sea weed wrap (like sushi?). But once we laid down and the 2 masseuses (masseusi?) started pounding our muscles into submission, we decided it was worth it. And my book didn't let me down, 2 massages = $12 (US). The masseuses tried to hustle us for a 100% tip, but I had read that $1.25 (US) was sufficient, so total, our relaxation hour cost a whopping $15 (US). Try to find that in the States.

After we were sufficiently jellified, we went back to the hotel for dinner. At the top of the Shangri-La Hotel (not kidding), there is a 360 degree view restaurant called, appropriately enough, 360. We feasted on fine French wine, Asian fusion dishes and a to-die-for chocolate melting cake with pistachio ice cream while enjoying the lovely city views from the 32nd floor and salsa music (huh?). It was a birthday dinner to remember.

The next day, we woke up early to beat the crowds at Lo Wu. First, we had Dim Sum for brunch:

Unlike in the United States, traditional Chinese Dim Sum is served in the morning and as early lunch, never dinner. When in Rome, er, Shenzhen... so, we feasted on shrimp and pork dumplings, spring rolls, sticky rice dumplings, jasmine tea and Chinese Coca-Cola. In the words of Rachel Ray, "Yum-o!"

After brunch, it was on to the tailors. When Marc came to Hong Kong on business in December, he had a custom-tailored suit and dress shirt made for less than $200. Each piece has become a favorite in his wardrobe, and I must admit, he looks very GQ when he wears his suit. In Shenzhen, you can find the same quality tailors and fabrics but at even cheaper prices. This I had to see. We entered the fabric market and there were thousands of bolts of fabric from exotic Chinese silks, to bed sheet and curtain fabrics, to suit jacket/trouser wools, to lace and ribbons and just about any pattern you could think of. I even know a woman who came here to get her wedding dress made!The seamstresses/tailors sat on the the stools in the aisles, waiting patiently for your business unlike the peddlers outside the market. We ordered custom-tailored bed sheets, pillow cases and a duvet cover in a high thread count fabric and expect to receive those via delivery in a few days.

Then, Marc went to a highly recommended tailor (read: more expensive) and ordered 3 pairs of work slacks for $30/each! We went back later for his fitting and they already had one pair ready:

Ha ha, just kidding, that was just the mock up so the tailor could get accurate measurements before he cut the real fabric. This is one of the finished products:

As some of you already know, Marc is not exactly what one would call a tall person. So, finding pants for him is virtually impossible, especially in the U.S., Land of the Big and Tall. Having the luxury of custom-tailored clothes for him is really great and you really can't beat the price! The pants you see above are made from a very fine quality light-weight European wool, lined and the hem falls just right on his shoes. He got this pair, a slightly darker khaki pair and a grey pair and is very satisfied with each one. He's been wearing them to work all week.

[Note: If you would like to have clothes custom tailored when you come visit, we can take you to Kowloon, just on the other side of the harbor in HK and have the tailor that made Marc's suit take your measurements. He can make a suit in a few days and will deliver it before you leave to go back home. Or for the more adventurous, we'll take you to Lo Wu.]

Next, came the handbag shopping. My mother, whom I love dearly, tasked me to find the latest Fendi bag. Impossible you say? Ha, I laugh at impossible tasks. I stepped into a purse shop and said "Fendi" to the shopkeeper who sent a young Chinese boy to run fetch "the books." When he returned, he had a suitcase full of name brand handbag catalogs (all my boys: Louis, Prada, Channel, Gucci, D&G, etc.), including the 2007 Fendi catalog. I flipped through it and immediately found the bag. I pointed to it and she sent the Local to retrieve it from the "secret warehouse so the police don't find them." I have no idea where this warehouse is, but about 15 minutes later, he returned, panting and sweating, with the coveted bag. Then came my moment of glory. I asked her how much. And she replied 800 Hong Kong Dollars (about $100 (US)). This is where the price of my shopping guide paid itself over. See, Ms. McNally said that shopkeepers will quote you a price and you *have to* bargain with them or else you are paying too much. She highly encourages negotiating a price 70% LESS THAN what the shopkeeper tells you and to stick to your guns. So, I did. It went something like this:

Me: Expressing outrage "that is too expensive."

Her: "Missy, you tell me how you pay." (gives me calculator)

Me: I punch 200 Hong Kong Dollars into the calculator.

Her: Expresses outrage, "Oh no, that is too little. Give me best price."

Me: "That is my best price."

Her: "I cannot do it. Here, I give you very good deal." Punches 790 on the calculator.

Me: "That is still too expensive." Silence.

Her: "Wait wait wait, I give you best price." Punches 700 on the calculator.

Me: "That is still too expensive." I punch in 200 again.

Her: "Oh no, I lose money!" 680.

Me: "You can do better than that."

Her: "OK, ok, look, I give you better price because you buy DVD." 650.

Me: "That is still too much."

Her: "You give me best price, please, I come down too much."

Me: "OK, 210, that is my final price."

Her: "Oh no...."

etc. etc. etc. ad infinitum

At $400, I turn to walk out and she runs after me to give me a "final price." Eventually, we settle on $230 HK (about $30 (US)).

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how you shop in Shenzhen.

I stress here that everything we bought that day seems to be good quality. I suspect that these products are good quality fakes maybe even made at the brand name factory on the next assembly line over or real brand name items with some type of irregularity that is invisible to the naked eye and was rejected at the factory. The one exception is the $1 (US) DVDs of which we bought 5 and only 2 work. What can you expect from something that costs $1?

Here is the low-down on the deals we got, all prices in US Dollars:

• Anya Hindamarch "This is Not a Plastic Bag" which is sold out in the US: $4
• Prada leather handbag: $15
• Mont Blanc Pen: $5
• Samsonite large rolling suitcase: $25
• North Face backpack: $10
• Custom made high thread count fitted/flat sheets, 4 pillowcases, duvet cover: $60
• Chanel and Prada sunglasses: $7/each
• Oakley sunglasses: $4
• Diesel Jeans for Marc: $12 including hemming
• Prada leather wallet for Marc: $5
• Tiffany's "Elsa Peretti-inspired" teardrop sterling silver ring: $4
• Manicure/Pedicure for me: $6 total
• 1 hour foot massage for Marc: $4

After a full day of shopping and haggling, we took the train home and quickly called my mother to show off the goods and torture her. ;-)