Saturday, November 17, 2007

Don't Tell Our Moms...

Place: Yangshuo, China
Language: Mandarin Chinese
Hello: Nĭ hău (knee how)
Thank you: Xièxie (shie shie)

There is a program on the Travel and Living channel over here called "Don't Tell My Mom I Went To [fill in the blank]." This guy travels all over the world to dangerous places like Afganistan and puts himself in some very sticky situations. That's how I feel about our time in Yangshuo.

It all started when I read that there were a few outfits in Yangshuo that would take you rock climbing on the karsts. Are you kidding me? Heck ya! I can't believe Marc didn't even tell me this was an option. He is no longer allowed to plan our itineraries because of this. So, after Marc's rousing game of ping pong with the Locals, we stopped by Karst Pizzeria which is a pizzeria, duh, and a rock climbing outfit. They also have a small hostel upstairs. Don't worry Moms, I read all about the rock climbing companies and chose the one that was highly recommended and specifically requested that the owner (who happens to have the most experience of all the rock climbers in Yangshuo) take us herself. I also checked all the ropes to make sure they were sturdy and new. We talked about our experience (mine at the rock climbing wall at Chucky Cheese and Marc's at the rock climbing wall at the Bull Durham minor league baseball game during the 7th inning stretch) and concluded we were beginners since we hadn't actually climbed a real outdoor rock/mountain/wall/cliff/ledge/hill. Our best bet was Baby Frog Rock, a good beginner's climb with good scenery for Mr. Shutterbug over here.

I wish we could say that we got a long lesson on how to climb the sucker in front of us but the only lesson we got was how to tie the ropes. I guess when it comes down to it, you just have to figure out how flexible you are feeling that day. To her credit though, our guide helped steer us in the right direction since she knew Baby Frog like the back of her hand. Marc went first, scaling the side of the karst like a spider monkey:

When he rappelled down, he whined like a little girl about how hard it was and how he didn't think I could make it. Waaa waaa waaaa, all I heard was a challenge and boy did I prove him wrong:

Not only did I climb that route, but I also climbed a more difficult route that went even higher. Don't worry Moms, we were only 10 feet off the ground, just enough to break a wrist but not die (see picture below).

As promised, the scenery was great and we took a bunch of pictures.

Rock climbers extraordinaire!


When we got back home, my mom almost reached through the computer to strangle me. I guess I won't tell her about the next dangerous thing we have on the itinerary for Bali... just kidding! (sort of).

Later that night, we went to a spectacular light show that took place on the Li River. We highly regretted forgetting the camera because it was a feast for the eyes. Over 600 performers put on a show unlike anything I've ever seen before. The karsts were illuminated making a magical natural backdrop. Cormorant fishers paddled on their bamboo rafts with lanterns. Chinese women and girls sang and danced in traditional Chinese costumes with elaborate headpieces and jewelry. At one point, over 200 performers wearing outfits made of white Christmas lights walked seemingly on the water (but really on floating walkways) in a long procession and flickered their lights in mesmerizing patterns. We bought the video so if anyone is interested, we can show you what we're talking about because I'm not doing a good job describing it.

The next day, we woke up early to bike around the surrounding farming villages and nearly wore our butts off on what had to be a 30 mile ride. We stopped frequently to take pictures like this one when we came across a bride and groom taking pictures in the rice paddies:

Nothing says romance like rice paddies, mud and water buffalo dung... We also stopped to see a 1,400 year old Banyan tree and to hike up Moon Hill. If you ever go on this trip, let me just warn you that Moon Hill is gorgeous but there are over 1,200 extremely steep steps and there are old Chinese women that follow you ALL THE WAY UP the mountain trying to sell you water and fan you with their bamboo fans. It's extremely irritating and no amount of ignoring or polite declining will deter them from possibly making a sale. The view at the top is worth it though:

Afterwards, we biked around the farms and came across this:


Yup, that's a water buffalo. Don't worry, he was accompanied by his owner, an old farmer lady that was gracious enough to drag her water buffalo out of the fields and let us take pictures with it. Many Locals have water buffalo to help till the soil for the rice paddies. It's really bizarre but you can be biking down the side of a road and all of a sudden, you're sharing the road with a family of water buffalo. Craziest thing I've ever seen - good thing they are tame!

Our biking trip was Marc's favorite part of the entire weekend and he took a TON of pictures like this:


And even another video:

After enough putzing around, we returned to the hotel to get our bags and a taxi to the airport. We thought we had plenty of time until the concierge told us it would take an hour longer than we expected to get to the airport. YIKES! We told the cab driver to step on it and BOY did he! The 1 1/2 hour ride from hell, I mean cab ride, involved lots of swerving to pass bikes, cars, buses, even people. We would swerve into ONCOMING traffic as if the cab were a ball in a pinball machine only to swerve back into our lane at the last possible minute. We turned on and off dirt roads without signs and, if we hadn't already used the same taxi driver the night before, would have thought he was leading us out back to get shot. I've been in many a harrowing taxi cab rides before, including Hong Kong and Thailand, but this one took the cake. We changed our pants before the we got on the plane, barely on time but on time nonetheless thanks to Speedybombeedy, and made it safely back home, much to the relief of our mothers.

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